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How to choose pearls:

Color

There are actually two colors to consider when looking at pearls, the body color and the secondary overtone color that is usually, but not always, present. The overtone color isn't always obvious, especially when it is similar to the body color itself. It can sometimes be seen as a sheen or a "pool" of secondary color on the crest of the pearl or pearls.

The most common naturally occurring body colors in Akoya cultured pearls are white, cream and pink. (In pearl speak, "rose" is often used for the word "pink".) A silver, cream or pink overtone is considered most desirable in these colors. In black pearls (whether dyed or natural), including gray and blue hues, blue and green overtones are considered most desirable. A yellow body color in pearls has traditionally been considered undesirable, probably due to a cultural preference for pink pearls on the part of the Japanese, but these pearls can look absolutely fabulouson certain darker skins. Color preference is subjective, and there's no such think as a "bad color". Most people choose the color they feel flatters their natural skin tones.

When examining and comparing pearl strand, lay them flat on a white or champagne-colored non-reflective surface, such as a velvet-covered tray. The best vantage point for comparing color is to hold the tray just below eye-level with the strands next to each other. Diffuse full-spectrum light is best for judging color. A black background is dramatic but obscures the fine quality points.

Lustre

A pearl should have a bright, even, reflective surface. Examine several strands. How clear is the reflection of your own image in the surface of the pearls? The clearer the reflected image, the higher the luster. High luster is high quality and often (but not always) indicative of good nacre thickness.

Coating

This refers to the amount of nacre on the nucleus. Most commercial pearls these day are "thin coat", meaning they were not left in the oyster long enough. Thin coat pearls are not as lustrous, and may chip or even peel. To check for thin coat, hold a length of strand just under a strong light source and roll it back and forth between your fingers. If you see the "wink" of the mother-of-pearl (shell) bead through the nacre, the coating is thin.

Surface

A pearl with a "clean" surface will reflect light more evenly and is therefore more valuable than a pearl with a blemished surface. Most pearls have blemishes, and the smaller and closer to the drill hole a blemish is, the better. Blemishes on the crest of a pearls are the least desirable.

Shape

Round pearls should be just that, round. Even the best strands may contain the occasional off round bead, however. Pearls are described as being round, semi-round, off-round, or baroque, in order of descending desirability (and price). As with color preference, a preference for round vs. baroque-shaped pearls in a personal thing.

In recent years the Chinese have successfully cultivated near-round white fresh water pearls. At this writing these pearls are not readily available in sizes above 6 or 7 mm. they typically have a softer, diffuse luster and are quite white with little overtone. But they are very good looking and also very inexpensive compared to their Akoya cultured pearl counterparts.

Size

In strands, pearl sizes are expressed as a size range, 7 x 7.5 mm means that every pearl in the strand will fall somewhere in that range. The pearls will generally have been graduated so the ones closer to 7.5 mm. are in the front. All other factors being equal, the larger the pearl, the more expensive it will be. Strands 9 x 8.5 mm. or larger will be significantly more expensive.